By Luana Rastelli
Before we start doing eyelash extensions, we have this idea that the technique is simple and easy, but the artist needs to know much more than “eyelashes and glue” to ensure the technique is correct and to get the best retention for each set. It’s very common to have doubts about which product or technique is best, after all, we all want loyal customers and we want to make sure they always recommend us. So, I have prepared some tips that can make your sets even better!
The first thing that you need to keep in mind is that the natural lashes need to be 100% clean and dry before the technique. Any residue or oiliness on natural lashes creates a barrier between the adhesive and the eyelashes, which can result in “false attachment” or even poor retention, because natural lashes are not as they should be.
Use a shampoo recommended for the eyes area and ALWAYS clean the lashes before any application, without forgetting, of course, to also clean the eyelids and around the eyes. Rinse in abundance to remove all product residue and dry with tissues. Avoid using cotton to prevent lint from loosening and getting inside your client’s eyes or catching on extensions (in case of refill).
Nowadays, we have so many products offering best retention, and that makes us want to buy and test them all, but, in most of cases, primers and other solutions are not extremely necessary. Most of them contain alcohol in their compositions and this can cause excessive dryness of the lashes. If the natural eyelashes become very dry, the adhesive will not have the same retention, since we know that the adhesives love particles of water to cure! If you use a primer, I recommend testing with saline solution instead. However, it’s recommended that you, as a professional lash artist, understands and learns everything about the product and the ingredients that you are using, to be sure that you are not applying anything that harms your client’s eye. Remember that you should never use something just because someone said it’s good, you need to know if that it’s really necessary for you, your clients and your needs!
Less is always more!
At this point, you might already know that the adhesive’s strength and the retention come in the composition and application, and not in the quantity of it on the natural lashes. The products we have in the market today are way more advanced than before and you don’t need to use a lot, to extend the life of the extensions. The perfect amount of adhesive should correspond to a very thin layer and should never be seen after application on the natural lashes. If you see a black “dot” of adhesive it means that you are using more than you should. Remember to try different types of viscosity as it might influence in the time of curing and to help you not having stickies after… Less is always more, when come to adhesive! Never forget that!
If you decide to try fast drying adhesives such as 0.5 to 1 second, you should know that it means that after dipping the extension into the drop of the adhesive, you need to apply it immediately on the natural lash. The isolation must be done before because only then you will be able to work with this kind off adhesives, still make a good placement and get the best retention on it!
This might sound a little common as we always see this in many online publications, but you cannot learn all the tips and tricks in some short free videos online. You must have a proper training to understand, and to learn why is so important to talk about placement and angle!
After placing the extension into the adhesive’s drop, you need to place it at the exact angle and press the extension. That little pressure will make sure your extension is really attaching in the lash – You can hold for 1 second and release. Once they have had contact, they shouldn’t detach. If you are an advanced lash artist and applying fans for volume technique, you need to know and learn how to properly wrap the lashes around the natural lash to make sure they last!
If you don’t have enough knowledge about the technique, you can use the best products in the market, but it won’t necessarily give you the best retention, you need to invest first in you education and then you will see why this is the most important part!
Temperature and humidity
We recommend our clients to keep the extensions dry after application for 8 to 24 hours, but do you know the impact that humidity and temperature can cause during the application? You would be surprised! We have different countries, and different climates, so how can artist from a tropical country or with different seasons work with the same adhesive? My tip? Try to vary and find the balance between low temperatures and humidity from 50% to 55%. If you do not have such control in your workspace, it can be difficult to get the best retention of your product. Remember, you should always shake your adhesive bottle VERY well, before each drop, to be able to leave the composition well blended at the time of application.
Sizes and thickness
Each client has a goal and a desire when they come to us, but the right choice of thickness and length has a significant impact on the durability of the technique. The more compatibility and less weight the lash artist can place on natural lashes, the longer that application should be! Knowing all the options and changing according to the thickness of the natural eyelashes of each client is one of the best skills you can have! If your client asks for something you know won’t be the best choice for her, just try to show all other styles and explain why is so important to not just apply the extension, but also to keep them growing health and strong. It’s up to you to learn how to achieve your client’s goals using the proper thickness and length for every client!
Keeping our good reputation with the quality of our work requires a lot of effort and dedication! Our clients can’t imagine how much we study, practice and invest to be able to get our work recognized and to ensure we achieve their satisfaction. It is a daily job and many lash artists give up in the middle of the road because they find some problems in the way, common themes are: poor education, financial issues, difficulties in applying the correct technique and the feeling of never being good enough… But let me assure you: all you need to overcome all these obstacles are FOCUS AND DETERMINATION. After all, every teacher was once a student and we all have the same goal: to have happy clients and to make sure we are keeping our good lashing reputation.