We all know that the styling of the eye is very important but before that, you need to understand what style you choose and why that is why first you need to know how to properly analyze your model.
Quite often I get questions, such as what map is used on “this picture”. You need to understand that each style will look different on each model and that your job is to find the best style for each of your clients. You will be able to do that when you will understand the power and importance of eye analyses.
To correctly analyze your client’s eyes, you need to know how to determine the eye shape, set of the eyes, horizontal and vertical axis, natural lashes position, eyebrow position and specified imperfections of the eye, etc.
We have two ways to determine the eye shape, the first one is the eye proportion if you will create the horizontal axis by connecting the inner and outer corner and compare them to each other.
And the second way is to specify the position of the iris.
- Proportion 1:1
- The Iris, it’s partly hidden underneath the bottom eyelid
- How to deal with narrow shaped eyes: we want to open the eye by using longer sizes or stronger curls in the middle part of the eye
- Proportion 2:1
- Iris is softly touching the waterline
- How to deal with almond-shaped eyes: it’s a perfect, most wanted shape does not require any correction
- Proportion 2:2
- Between Iris and waterline, we have a gap
- How to deal with rounded shaped eyes: we want to balance the shape of that eyes, by making them flatter. We can achieve this look by using longer sizes or a bigger curl in the outer corners.
Vertical Axis – 3rd eye method
To check the vertical axis, we need to measure the length of one eye and compare it with the distance between the eyes.
- Distance between the eyes is longer than the length of the eye
- How to deal with this: use thicker lashes or a bigger volume in the inner corners to create the illusion that the eyes are closer to each other. Open eye style: for example, doll
- Distance between the ice is shorter than the length of the eye
- How to deal with this: use thicker lashes or bigger volume in the outer corner to create an illusion of normal set eyes. Use a style that will pull the eyes outwards for example kitten, cat eye, fox.
- Distance between the eyes equals the length of the eye
- No correction is needed
Create the horizontal axis by connecting the inner and outer corner.
The outer corner is on a lower level than in the corners. This axis gives us a ‘sad eye’ effect, we can correct it by not filling the outer corner lashes.
Outer corners are on a higher level than the inner corners. This axis doesn’t need any correction.
Outer and inner corners are on the same level. You need to be careful as it’s easy to make that eye look “droopy” very important is to take under consideration the position of natural lashes. (See point 5)
Set of the eyes
You can determine deep-set eyes by:
- Not visible upper eyelid
- Shadow below the brow bone
- Use a longer size of the lashes as the shadow underneath the brow will make the lashes look shorter, use B, L, L+ curls.
- Upper and the bottom eyelid is very visible you can see the shape of the eyeball.
- Use shorter lashes to avoid making eye even more outstanding, stronger curls like C or D.
Natural lashes position
You need to determine if the lashes growing upwards, straight or downwards. This is important as the curls will look differently on each natural lash.
Most common is when lashes in outer corner growing downwards that’s why you need to use stronger curl in that part.
Very important when choosing the length of your lashes.
High eyebrow arch
- Longer lashes to fill the area underneath the brow
Low eyebrow arch
* Shorter lashes to keep them below the eyebrows.
- In this case, we want to hide the hooded part of the eye by using L or L+ curls and longer sizes lashes in an area where the eyelid is dropping.