by Sofia Atsarou
Are you a beginner lash artist and you can’t understand what mistakes you tend to make? You believed you had created the dreamy set and when the clients open their eyes you realize that the perfect look you were imaging transforms to downright scary, and on top of this they come back to complain about the result, and that they have fallen out too soon??
Do not be discouraged!
This is every beginner eyelash extensions stylist’s nightmare but fortunately, it’s pretty easy to solve. With eyelash extensions it’s usually the little things, that when taken together make a big difference. Just make sure you do the following steps right.
Mistake number 1: you choose the wrong styling
We all know the magic of eyelashes and how they can open up eyes and make them look bigger and stunning immediately, but not all styles suit every client. Most clients want the” cat eye ” look, but only a very small handful of people actually have the correct eye shape to pull off this look. It is so important that you know how to correctly style. You need to take into consideration clients eye shape, distance of the eyes, natural lash growth direction and facial bone structure in order to achieve the best look for each of your clients. You also need to be able to choose the appropriate length, thickness and curl. Tell your client to look straight at you and then mark the spot on the lid where you want to give emphasis in order to create the desired result (when the clients eyes are shut, it makes it very tricky to determine). Now is the perfect time to do the mapping! Lash mapping has a major effect on overall look. Symmetry is the absolute key when doing lashes and without a map it will be extremely difficult to remember which lash you should use where.
Mistake number 2: you don’t work with layers
A very important way to achieve the perfect lash look is working with the layers. You don’t do it? Now is the perfect time to do it!! Remember you need to put a longer lash on the bottom layers and a shorter lash on the middle and on the top layers.
Mistake number 3: you don’t follow the correct pre-treatment
It is very important to follow the correct pre-treatment before you begin your eyelash application. You need to ensure that your client has absolutely no make up, dust or grime on her lashes. You can clean them with lash shampoo and gently remove it with water. Make sure that the eyelashes are dry before you continue the application. For best results remember to always follow up with cleanser, primer or pre-treatment before you start.
Mistake number 4: wrong placement of patches
Have you ever thought that the reason for the messy look when your client opens their eyes maybe caused by the incorrect placement of patches? Well it is the base of creating the perfect set. You should always start from the inner corners and move outwards, this way you will have more control of the placement of patches and you will avoid chemical burn and discomfort for your client. Ensure that all lower lashes are completely covered but take care to ensure that they are not touching your clients eye. Once the gel pads have both been applied, gently comb through the lashes. Medical tape can also be used and it is an alternative way for the clients who have allergic reaction to patches.
Mistake number 5: wrong lash direction
A very important factor in a clean final look is the correct lash direction. The aim of the therapist is to create immaculate uniformity of all the extensions. Unfortunately most natural lashes tend to”Criss-cross” or grow in different directions.If we were to follow the direction of natural lashes we would have a set of very messy extensions that mimic the natural lashes. Instead we must control the direction of our extensions and use the base of the natural lashes as attachment points only. We only need a minimal amount of glue attached to the base, therefore we can easily control the direction that we wish the extensions to follow. Ignore the direction of the natural lashes, focus solely on the base of the natural lash, as this is where you will be attaching your extension. It is up to you to control the direction of the extensions. Do not let the natural lashes dictate the direction of the extension. Remember the lashes should leave the eyelid at a 90 degree perpendicular angle and the inner and outer corner lashes should fan outwards not head straight.
Mistake number 6: wrong distance from the lid
Getting the correct distance from the lid is very tricky and requires a lot of experience and practice to get it perfect. They are either too close to the lid or too far off. However, both are bad. If you get the lash too close to the lid it will be very uncomfortable or even painful for your client. The lash and the adhesive will irritate their skin. Sticking the lash too far from the lid, is not as bad as getting it too close, however it will eventually grow much quicker than the other lashes and will be too heavy for the root of the natural lash. It will also look very messy and could cause the extensions to twist. The ideal distance is between 0.5-1Mm from the lid.
Mistake number 7:stickies
Stickies are the most important thing to watch out for when applying lashes. The reason it is so important to check your work for stickies is because they are extremely damaging to the natural lashes. The first step to prevent stickies is to correctly isolate the lash. Checking your work for stickies is very important. Always ensure you save time at the end of a treatment in order to do this thoroughly and correctly. Check each individual lash with your tweezers, do not forget to check every natural lash to ensure that any baby lashes are not stuck anywhere.
Mistake number 8: you don’t control the amount of glue
If you have been wondering why your clients lashes are not lasting as long as they should be, it is probably because of the amount of glue you’re using during the treatment. Try and scoop the glue but not too much. You just Want the tiniest ball of glue on the lash not a big blob. If you get too much glue then try to scoop slower.
It’s all about the safety of your clients and to make an incredible look! Remember if you want to touch the stars you should work hard first. Everyone of us can create perfection but we should wait a little bit and practice every day! Never give up, believe in yourself!! Thank you for reading, I hope you found this information useful.