Lash Styling

Table of Contents

When we talk about style, never set limitation on where it can take us. However, when we focus on styling, we are creating the narrative to a desired result. Regardless, of whether you give it creative names, or keep it covertly written in numeric code – there is a distinct difference between custom styled lashes, and one size fits all!

To achieve a particular lash-style, you first need to understand which one you are going to create and why. You will never go wrong when working towards a natural balance – and for this, basic standards apply. We measure the entire eye area and compare over all uniqueness of each face shape, then we can explain their tailored ‘lash-formation’.

Rich texture is naturally present before we begin any application. By examining the natural lashes, you can identify multiple length, thickness, and curl that each client was born with. Using knowledge of weight and visibility to enhance this natural texture, you can maximize your clients lash line and overall wear time. 

For styling your clients lash line you want to determine the shape, plane and set of the eyes.

Create balance within any set by choosing the correct style map.

Step 1. (Set)

Measure the distance of one eye and compare to the width between both eyes.

Even-Set: distance between eyes in equal to length on one eye.

Wide-Set: distance between eyes longer than length of one eye.

Narrow-Set: distance between eyes in shorter than the length of one eye.

Step 2. (Plane)

Measure the horizontal between inner and outer corners.

Even Plane: inner and outer corners lay on an even plan.

Ascending Plane: outer corner sits higher than the inner corner.

Descending Plane: outer corner sits lower than the inner corner.

Step 3. (Shape)

Measure the width to height ratio.

Round: even width and height 

Almond: double the width then height

Exotic: more than double the width than height.

Once you have the set, plane, and shape choose your style to create balance.


Wide set: Move the longest area of extensions inward to create the illusion there is less space between the eyes.

Close set: a kitten or cat eye styling will work to pull the eyes apart and make them look more balanced.

Even: no corrective work to be done.


Ascending plane: can support more length to the outer eye without looking “droopy” or closed off due t the natural height of the outer eye.

Descending plane: bring length to the mid eye (highest point of the curve and taper down drastically towards the outer eye – this will give the effect the eye is titled inwards and look more even planed.

Even plane: work with the natural arch point of the brow and a more natural shape here with length swept across the mid/outer and tapered both inside and outside eye.


Round: the only shape that needs extreme caution with is round. Too much curl or height will make them look shocked/surprised 23/7. Use B curl only and bring length towards the outer eye and away from mid eye to elongate the round shape into more of an almond.

Hooded: we need lift on hooded eyes to cover the heavy lid and make them look refreshed! Use an L or L+ curl(mix with a c curl for softness) to go over the hood crease.

There are so many things to know when it comes to styling – and this is just a taste! Other things to take into account are facial shape, bone structure, brows, and more to determine the ultimate styling. If you’re unsure about your styling skills, enroll in a styling course!

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Nova Wang
Nova Wang
As lead editor at Focus Lashes, I'm passionate about all things that are lash-related. On this site, I'm exploring my interests related to the eyelash extension industry.

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