by Lana Slatina
Sooner or later each lash artist is faced with the challenge of problem natural lashes. Let’s revise the following common cases of problem natural lashes.
Very dense and short natural lashes
First, we will apply eye lash extensions to the shortest natural lashes using the Classic technique. Then we apply volume fans of 0.04, 0.05 or 0.06mm thickness to the rest of the eye lashes. The bases of those fans should be really thin and twisted.
Growing down or deformed natural lashes
When the natural eye lashes grow downwards, we will use the maximum curl possible. It works better when we apply the extensions at the bottom of the natural lash and pull each extension upwards after application. When the natural lash is deformed, we should not apply the extension parallel to its base, because we will get the wrong direction. We will respect the direction in accordance with the chosen design, and sometimes even attach the extension to the base, leaving a very tiny area of adhesion. Sometimes the extension will stay almost perpendicular to the natural lash.
Sparse, weak, falling out natural lashes
Sometimes natural lashes which are prone to falling out require special care and cleaning. Removing all the fat and grease from the eye lid, because it blocks the pores, weakens the natural lash and may result in early fall out. It may take some time before the natural lashes become stronger again. We will apply eye lash extensions at the distance of 0.5-1.00mm from the eye lid and never go over 2D volume.
To make lashes fluffy and dense at the base, we will form the volume fans without twisting the base, with the bases of extensions strictly parallel to each other. We will use very thin extensions of 0.03, 0.04 or 0.05mm thick.
When the natural lashes are sparse and weak, we will choose the strongest and healthiest lashes and apply the maximum volume on them, while we will apply just 2-3D volume on the rest of the weak lashes using very thin extensions.
Glazed and shiny natural lashes
Some natural lashes are so nurtured and hydrated that they have a shiny, glazed appearance and they are kind of slippery when we try to apply lash extensions. They seem to reject the adhesive as if they were covered with an invisible wrap. This type of natural lashes is common for clients who take lots of vitamins or those on antibiotic treatment, or women who are breast-feeding, or even during menstruation. These are periods when the metabolism is accelerated. The particles of the eye lash cuticle are tightly closed, that prevents the adhesive from penetration into the pores and reduces the retention time.
This is the case when you just can’t do without primer. The perfect method to ensure great retention is a “sandwich” technique. We apply individual eye lash extension at the bottom of the natural lash and immediately apply another one on top of the same natural lash. The natural lash will be locked inside between two extensions and will not be able to reject them.
To achieve a fluffier effect, we can use the mixed method. We can apply the 0.10mm thickness individual extension on the bottom of the natural lash, and we will apply two 0.07mm (2D) extensions on top of the same natural lash. As a result, we will get a 3D fluffiness.
Watery eyes, blinking and non-close eye lids
Almost all lash experts are faced with a “crying” client from time to time. Some clients cannot close their eyes completely; others cannot stop blinking. In all those cases there is a danger of a chemical burn as the fumes from the adhesive get in contact with the mucus membrane of the eye.
If the client “cries” during the application of eye lash extensions, we will put a little cotton ball or some cellulose tissue near the corner of the eye to make sure we work with dry natural lashes.
If the client is blinking or cannot close their eyes completely, we can try to fix the upper eye lid with tape or gel patch, or we can turn the head of the client to the side. The oldest method was to place a clean coin on the eye lid and fix it with the tape.
Consequences of a sty
Very often one or several natural lashes stop growing back after the inflammation of the hair bulb – a sty.
It depends on the intensity and the grade of the inflammation. Another reason for natural lash loss may be the chronic blepharitis (inflammation of the borders of the eye lids).
In these cases, we must fill in the gaps, applying fans of maximum 5-7D volume with non-twisted straight bases. It will help to hide the defect and make it absolutely invisible.
The good thing is that any difficulty makes us stronger and enriches our professional experience.
Wishing you great success and lots of thankful clients!